Portugal was a surprise from the moment we landed there. We reached Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport in Porto on an early morning flight from Barcelona. We checked into our spacious Airbnb located in the city centre quickly and left for city sightseeing. While we were walking down the cobbled streets, the first point was the iconic Dom Luís I Bridge. It is a double-deck metal arch bridge that spans the river Douro between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia in Portugal. From the top of the bridge, we observed the vast Douro river and it’s valley, as if it had settled into its rhythm long ago.
Later, we visited a vineyard (my first vineyard experience) and I was thrilled to hear about all the processes involving wine-making. We were given a few to taste which included Ruby Port (deep red colour and intense fruity flavours), Tawny Port (lighter amber/brown colour and nutty, caramel and dried fruit flavours), White Port (made from white grapes, ranging from dry to sweet, often served as a chilled aperitif) and a bit of Vintage Port (the highest quality, made from a single, exceptional year of harvest, meant for long-term ageing). We learnt that only the wines made in the Douro Valley (Douro Wine region) in northern Portugal can be legally labelled ‘Port’.
The ride to and from the vineyard was in a tram, from which we saw the old town more minutely. It felt clear why smaller towns often stay with you. There’s always some kind of comfort in them. They make you feel more at home irrespective of which country or continent they are in.
The next day was unhurried. We saw the oldest chapel in town, tiled facades, heritage buildings, muralled lanes and the famous bookstore, Livraria Lello. The bookstore was frequented by J.K. Rowling, author of the Harry Potter series, when she taught English in Porto and is reported to be an inspiration for her writing. By evening, it was a simple dinner, a glass of Super Bock and delicious desserts. Our time in Porto felt complete.
The next day, early in the morning, we reached Porto’s São Bento railway station to begin our journey from cloudy and chilly Porto to bright and sunny Lagos. The first half of the journey to Lagos was comfortable, the second half was in a crowded coach that made me count each minute. But Lagos made up for it in the next two and a half days.
Lagos is a vibrant coastal town in Portugal’s famous Algarve region. It has an easy pace with streets that open into lively praça (plaza), meals that are wholesome (my best burrito bowl was had here) and the Atlantic Ocean beaches that are never too far away.
Praia do Camilo and Dona Ana, with their cliffs and striking Ponta da Piedade rock formations, felt almost sculpted rather than natural. These weathered arches and the warm sand beaches along the Atlantic coastline held their own kind of drama. Algarve was so picturesque. To be honest, I realized it much later that it was one of the world’s top visited tourist places. That evening, we found ourselves back at the central square, Praça Gil Eanes. A Fado performance was being played there, dinner followed and a quiet walk back to the hotel.
The weather in Lagos was just perfect. I was completely okay with the tan as long as I was under the azul sky. It was Monday blues but a different one!
Although I didn’t want to leave Lagos, we had to because Lisbon was waiting for us. A city with layers of history, light and authenticity.
We walked through Lisbon, as we often do in new places, letting it reveal itself in fragments. Later, a tuk-tuk ride carried us across the seven hills, each turn opening to a mesmerising view. Lisbon is known as the “City of Seven Hills” (Sete Colinas), built on a hilly landscape offering panoramic viewpoints (miradouros). The seven hills are São Jorge, São Roque, São Vicente, Santo André, Santa Catarina, Chagas, and Sant’Ana. These hills define the city’s historic districts and offer iconic views of the Tagus River. From the top, Lisbon looked like a well-lit story. The trams moved through the cobbled streets like they belonged to another time, yet perfectly at home in this one.
And perhaps the whole picture Lisbon gave me made me realize I love anything Lisbon — the Portuguese capital city, Raquel Murillo aka Lisbon in Money Heist and Teresa Lisbon aka Lisbon in The Mentalist. What are the chances that two of my favourite shows have their female lead named Lisbon.
It was the end of our trip. There was a kind of charm here. Portugal unfolded itself so beautifully before me and I asked, ‘Is it possible to settle down here?’ ‘Stay back,’ it said.
